Day 1- National Park & End of the World Train
Wow. Everywhere we look is breathtaking. Ushuaia is the southernmost city on the planet, nestled between the Andes Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It does indeed feel like the end of the world.
We started the day by walking through the Tierra del Fuego National Park, getting a taxi then a bus to where roads in Argentina end. We took a few trails, working out way towards the Visitor Centre. The scenery was just stunning, and walking alone in this wilderness was an unforgettable experience. Making progress was hard, not physically, but having to draw ourselves away from standing gazing at the out of this world views at the end of the world.
The subantarctic landscape offered snow-capped mountains, tranquil lakes, forests, peak bogs, birds and all-round beauty in our relatively short trek.
Getting around in the national park without joining a tour group was a bit of a logistical challenge, but with the help of some very friendly locals we achieved it. We’re glad we did, as being alone added to the challenge, sense of adventure and feeling of wilderness.
After our hike we spent a restful and relaxing afternoon on the End of the World Railway, taking in more scenery and learning about the history of the town. The southernmost railway in the world follows the historical route once used by prison inmates- the very reason Ushuaia exists, at the edge of civilization.
Day 2- Exploring Ushuaia & Horse Riding
We spent the morning exploring the town, browsing its tin shops selling souvenirs and outdoor gear, taking in the stunning views of the Beagle Channel and mountains beyond and soaking up the atmosphere and the crisp air of the End of the World.
In the afternoon we went horse riding, making our way through native lenga forests and along the shores of Lago Escondido in Tierra del Fuego. Experiencing this slice of nature on horseback was a blissful experience, calming & awe-inspiring at the same time. The views as we rode along the shore were spectacular. Trotting through the unique forest, where immense trees are brought down by even more immense winds, littering the forest floor, was a journey we’ll never forget.
Day 3- Lake Esmeralda & Prison Museum
The early bird catches the views in Ushuaia, so we were up bright and early to begin our hike to Laguna Esmeralda. The lagoon gets its name from its stunning emerald green colour during the summer months.
Leonie was a little nervous about the hike, our guide seemed determined to take health and safety to a whole new level. We filled in mountains of paperwork and answered what felt like a thousand questions, including our blood types! After all that, we were beginning to wonder what we had signed ourselves up for. As it turned out, the hike itself was fairly easy, and there was very little to worry about.
The starting point was just a 15-minute drive outside the city, followed by around two hours of walking to reach the lagoon. The terrain was a real mix of ice, mud and slush, but despite the conditions, it was an incredibly peaceful place to be.
Along the way, we spotted our first ever beaver dam and could even see fresh bite marks on the trees where the beavers had been busy the night before. Between the wildlife, the spectacular scenery and the sheer tranquillity of the surroundings, there was plenty to stop and stare at.
Eventually, we arrived at Laguna Esmeralda. It wasn’t emerald green when we visited as it was completely frozen over, but that did mean we could walk across it! Definitely a unique experience.
In the afternoon we visited the Prison Museum. Ushuaia began as a penal colony from 1896 after Argentina claimed the island as their own in 1884 and wanted to populate the land. The prison was built in 1902 and housed dangerous criminals, political prisoners and a serial killer. Prisoners who were well behaved were allowed to go on the train to collect the wood needed to heat the prison and town. Prisoners desperately wanted to leave the prison and get fresh air. In fact a popular punishment was removing the privilege of spending all day chopping down trees. We particularly enjoyed exploring the wing of the prison which has been left as it was when the prison closed in 1947.
Day 4- Skiing at Cerro Castor
Skiing at Cerro Castor, Ushuaia, wasn’t on our agenda. We hadn’t even realised it was possible at this time of year. But Michael’s beady eyes spotted a pair of skis in the racks outside our hotel, and suddenly he was on a mission to rearrange our itinerary so we could ski on his birthday!
We arrived at a muddy car park, hired all our gear with the help of some friendly staff, and headed up the chair lift in search of snow. It wasn’t exactly a surprise that conditions were a little sparse at the base- we were visiting on the penultimate day of the ski season!
It took us a few runs to get back into the swing of things, but we loved being back on the slopes. And skiing on our third continent, just 11 months after we first started learning, felt pretty special.
Day 5- Beagle Channel & Martillo Island
Our final day in Ushuaia, and probably our favourite day of the trip so far.
We started with a boat trip through the Beagle Channel, braving the weather to take in incredible views of Ushuaia city, the Andes and plenty of wildlife. We stopped at the famous Lighthouse at the End of the World, where a colony of sea lions and pups were resting on the rocks.
Then was a magical highlight, visiting Martillo island. Home to both Magellanic and Gentoo penguins. We are incredibly lucky that our visit to Ushuaia lined up with the time of the year that you are allowed on the island.
Watching Magellanic penguins nest in their burrows and call for their mate was amazing. The Gentoos waddled around like they were preparing for a drunk fight, absolutely magical.
An unforgettable way to finish our time in Ushuaia. 🐧🇦🇷
